Wednesday 27 July 2016

Kaziranga and the deluge

Way back in September, 2008 the company I worked for in Delhi sent me to an official trip to the London office in UK. Unfortunately I got cautioned by the metropolitan police, just a day after landing, for carrying a pen-knife in my bag to a public place (the Big Ben). At the police station I was asked to produce my passport. On questioning I told them that I hailed from Assam in India. It is then that one of my interrogators commented “The place from where the tea comes from and also famous for the rhinos”. On the verge of tears I added “And oil too”.
Those tears of mine dried up as I was dropped at the apartment in Pimlico by the two police personnel late at night with a “Enjoy your stay in London” but today while watching one of the local news channels (which I rarely do) highlighting the floods inside the national park, brought back fresh flood of tears.
Wild animals still alive  swept away along with the current, rhino calves separated from its mother, dhekia-potia bagh (wild feline) floating and struggling between life and death, deer taking shelter and other wild beats escaping the inundated areas and fleeing towards the national highway- 37 and the embankments, rhino calf barging inside the bamboo-fenced compound of a house-hold in the fringe village, animal carcass floating in the river-water, were a few clippings which were enough to kindle moisture in the eyes of this animal lover. The not so fortunate ones of God’s own creations met with a watery grave. Needless to say, poachers lurking around may find the easiest catch.
Kaziranga situated in the floodplains of the mighty river Brahmaputra encompasses the districts of Golaghat and Nowgaon to which Sonitpur was also added later. A few kilometers upstream is Majuli, the largest riverine habitable island in the world. Both Kaziranga and Majuli are the two geographical hotspots within Assam which is facing the vagaries of flood and its accompanying unabated natural erosion. The national park, also a world heritage site declared by UNESCO, is the habitat of several endemic, endangered and vulnerable species. Its rich biodiversity in terms of both flora and fauna is enriched by the complex interaction of diverse biotic and abiotic factors including the river water of Brahmaputra. The ecosystem in KNP is not only unique but also different from those of other national parks within India like the Corbett NP in U’khand etc. owing to different its physiography, climate,  soil, etc. The river Brahmaputra sustains life of the wild creatures of the park by recharging the beels (wetlands) and the natural water-holes and replenishing and rejuvenating the complex ecosystem of KNP. The irony is that the river water of Brahmaputra which sustains life in this national park also takes away countless lives of wild beasts during the monsoon season.
Years ago my animal lover friend Azam Siddiqui, whom I knew from my association with PFA, emailed me a photograph captured by the famous photographer Rituraj Konwar wherein predators and preys alike (in KNP) were clinging on to dear life, as each stood in the temporary make-shift elevated platform erected by the forest department at the time of one such floods in Assam. Such is nature’s marvel.
As a student of Geography, I learnt about the sculpturing of the earth’s surface by the different agents of erosion viz. running-water, glacier, sea-waves, under-ground water and wind. Its blessings are in the form of beautiful meandering course of the river, ox-bow lakes, natural levee and flood-plain in the middle course of a river, as is commonly seen in Assam. After the flood water recedes, it leaves behind rich alluvial deposit which is highly fertile for the cultivation of different crops, esp. our staple crop rice. It is nature’s way to supplement soil nutrients derived from weathering and transportation which enriches the soil.
Nature is the best sculptor, agreed. But at what cost? Dhemaji is the worst flood-prone district in Assam, which gets cut-off from the rest of the state at the time of high floods. I consider myself to be so fortunate sitting at home (parental home), sipping my cup of evening tea as I watch the news. Entire villages swept clean by the killer-flood, standing crops bull-dozed by the flow, domesticated animals either swept away or have to be carried to safer areas by their owners from the angry-hungry river. Life is brought to a complete standstill. People are brought down to the roads, reduced to beggars (often seen begging in Guwahati), with nothing to eat, no other clothes to wear, no home to go to because the flood water either submerged it or swept it all. Everything wiped clean when it came surging. The tribals esp. the Mishings have built their homes on stilted platform owing to the floods which hits the headlines annually without fail. They have learnt to acclimatize with the ravages of floods.
I remember my father brought home some answer scripts for checking which was for a job opening. One of the questions was on “Floods in Assam” (probably an essay). An examinee wrote “Assam’s flood is compulsory”. That one liner is a dark humour. It just knocks everything down, like a glacier mowing down whatever comes on its way.
While porcupine structures and geo-bags are erected as a measure to check erosion and minimize the devastation caused by floods, these are not permanent solutions. If at all floods have to be controlled the entire catchment area must be taken into consideration which includes the states of Arunachal, Nagaland, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Manipur and Sikkim because the tributaries of river Brahmaputra and also Barak down south in Assam either originates or flows through these states. It is a known fact our neighbor Arunachal is damned by the ongoing building of mega-dams to generate hydro-electricity, so much sought after by city/ town-dwellers and the unsatiable industries to run its engines. Pristine-virgin lands of Arunachal Himalayas have been submerged to make way for such projects, definitely not on sustainable lines, and not in consultation with the locales. It is pertinent to highlight here that entire northeast India falls in the highest seismic zone (Zone V). Trees which binds the soils together has been axed at an alarming rate, that much of Arunachal’s once sylvan cover, can be easily detected on the satellite imageries standing bare and exposed. With lofty mountain without the binding element, there is a free-flow of river load further downstream. There is no denying the fact that deforestation is also silently going on at our own backyard. We are hungry for land. We don’t think twice before we chop-off trees in order to clear the forest so as make way for agriculture or some other economic activity. The teeming Indians and their ever increasing numbers is the moot cause.
A villager who was interviewed by the media broke-down in tears having lost everything to the floods- his child, his agricultural field with its crops, his livestock, nothing to call his own.  My husband who also hailed from Dhemaji once narrated an incident about floods. As a youth while out to provide food and clothes the relief providers were shocked to see two dead bodies that of a mother and her daughter, locked in a tight embrace as they drowned in the flood water.
The solution to controlling floods doesn’t lie in the interlinking of rivers (as in Europe). Assam faces drought-like conditions in the non-monsoon period. Aquatic life in the rivers could be jeopardized in the name of checking floods. We cannot simply copy and paste- what is good in Europe may not be good in India when it comes to inter-linking of rivers. How will we check pollution of river Brahmaputra considering river Ganga and its tributary Yamuna is far too polluted than our Brahmaputra. Why must river-water pollution spread out to lesser polluted natural waterways?
All the governments who were in power in Assam could have come up with a permanent solution to tame the problem of Assam’s flood. What can we expect from a government whose leader who led the state until a few months before stated humorously that people can use bamboo plantain bhur (raft) when such a natural calamity strike. With a change of power, more so because the current chief minister of Assam whose constituency is Majuli, will things improve for the better? Let’s hope it does, fingers-crossed.
If we don’t care for our trees and our forest which is the home of the wild animals, a day will come when our natural forest will stealthily turn into urban concrete jungles. Will we go wild then?


                                                                                                                        -By Karobi Gogoi

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